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SOUTHEAST ASIA 2024—MARCH 15-16, BANGKOK

MARCH 15:  Our tuk-tuk driver deposited us around Noon at Siamotif in a new (to us) part of town.  He didn’t actually drop us off in front of the hotel, but rather at the end of a cul-de-sac next to a small footbridge that spanned a sluggish drainage canal that emptied into the larger Bangkok Noi Canal which, in turn, emptied into the Chao Phraya River.  We wandered around a bit, unsure of where to go, but we finally opted to cross the footbridge.  From there we found ourselves in a narrow, winding alley and came upon a high stucco wall painted terracotta-pink enclosing a courtyard, with a sign "Siamotif."  Out of the way and tricky to find?  Yes.  Worth the false starts?  Oh, yes!  

Siamotif was perhaps my favorite accommodation of our Southeast Asia tour.  Here are a few photos of the traditional 1940s wooden house the owner inherited from her father and renovated into a small boutique hotel.







After checking in, we asked our host where we might have lunch.  She suggested a small restaurant nearby, specializing in rice dishes.  We sat curbside.

The restaurant was located on Bang Khun Non Road, a main street lined with shops selling produce, freshly made pastes and soups, housewares and cleaning supplies, live fish and crabs, cheap clothes, smoothies, household shrines, and who-knows-what-all.   


Bang Khun Non Road conveniently led directly to the Bang Khun Non stop on the BL4, an extremely modern, spotlessly clean, elevated metro from which we could access anywhere in Bangkok.   

From the elevated train, we had a bird's eye view of the sprawling city on our way to the MBK Center--a shopping mall which, according to Lonely Planet, was an experience not to be missed. 


The mall was actually quite miss-able, as malls tend to be, but the lady with the soccer Buddha in the metro; the young women with diaphanous dresses, portable mini-fans, and rhinestone sandals at the station; as well as the cobbler working under the overhead tracks, were definitely noteworthy.


MARCH 16:  My husband found an on-line walking tour of graffiti in an area of the city called Talat Noi, "little market," and we decided to see some of the city on foot. According to Wiki: 

Talat Noi has a long history predating the founding of Bangkok. The first ethnic group to settle here were the Portuguese from Ayutthaya. ... Later, other ethnic groups came to live in Talat Noi, not only Chinese but also Vietnamese and Khmer. The area was Bangkok's first port, and was where immigrants landed.

Today, Talat Noi is a cultural attraction. Locals retain their form of speech, food, and folk beliefs as in the past. Houses and lanes are lathered with graffiti that makes the place popular with teenagers, hipsters, and foreign tourists who want to experience a traditional Chinese quarter.

The best way to get to Talat Noi was by boat from Wang Lang Pier, a 15 minute walk from our hotel.  The views from the ferry showed a very modern city; once on foot, we noted traditional houses jammed in between skyscrapers.


Talat Noi has a young, hip vibe, and the neighborhood is dotted with small contemporary art museums and galleries.

We visited Warin Lab Contemporary, whose website states:

Warin Lab Contemporary...engages with international audience by addressing prevailing social issues through leading edge curatorial projects. The art space aims to create meaningful dialogues through non-conforming art practices that provoke thoughts and stimulate actions.

The photography and video exhibit we saw focused on deforestation and the damage done to ancient trees when they are uprooted, transported, and replanted in vanity projects.  They invariably die.


The Talat Noi locals we saw sported tattoos and were decked out in high style-low cost fashion, usually taking selfies.

 

The neighborhood has one-of-a-kind, odd retail


and funky restaurant/cafes, like Harmonie (below), located in a colonial building tucked away in an alley dominated by a giant banyan tree that has all but smothered a Hindu statue.

 


Best of all, though, is Talat Noi's graffiti.

 




After a drink at a riverfront bar called Baan Rim Naam, 


we retraced out steps to the ferry, whose dock had a colorful shrine.  The sunset over the Chao Phraya on the way back to Siamotif was lovely.

We'd managed only half the graffiti tour through Talat Noi but would see the rest and more tomorrow.

Keep it real!

Marilyn

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