Our host at Lerenda Homestay had promised to make us crab cake noodle soup for breakfast this morning. It arrived steaming hot and oh, so fresh!
On today’s agenda was a tour of the Nguyen Imperial Tombs we’d booked through Get Your Guide. The tombs are located outside Hue so transport is essential. Our driver, Tommy Bao, picked us up at 9:00 a.m. We thought we had booked a guided tour, but it turned out we had booked transportation only. (Memo to self: read the fine print.) Notwithstanding, Tommy was an amiable driver and indulged our lingering at these stunning tombs over the course of the next five hours.
The three imperial tombs we visited--those of Khai Dinh, Minh Mang, and Tu Duc--were built between the mid-19th to the mid-20th century by the 12th, 2nd, and 9th respective rulers of the Nguyen Dynasty. All are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and this map shows their location relative to the Imperial Citadel.
The Vinpearl website says the Khai
Dinh Tomb
was the final architectural work of the Nguyen Dynasty. It is widely regarded as one of Vietnam's most exemplary structures due to its innovative use of Western materials and designs. The tomb’s location was exactly determined by feng shui experts at that time. Natural surroundings such as hills and streams are near the tomb, which was also according to geographical feng shui principles.
[T]he tomb showcases the emperor's extravagant taste, which was a combination of Eastern and Western architecture. Here you can find lots of architectural features inspired by India, Buddhism, Rome, and even the Middle Ages.
The exterior is wildly grandiose and reflects the theatricality of Khai Dinh, who is rumored to have been gay. At his death, a funeral cortège carried his elaborate coffin over the ten kilometers that separate the Imperial Citadel from the tomb site and then up several very steep sets of stone steps.
Tommy next drove us to the Mausoleum of Emperor Minh Mang, a decidedly less exuberant individual as is reflected in his harmonious resting place. Again, an aerial photo gives you an idea of the scale and layout.
The Mausoleum of Emperor Minh Mang was constructed in the early 19th century during the Nguyen Dynasty, which ruled Vietnam from 1802 to 1945. Emperor Minh Mang, who reigned from 1820 to 1841, was known for his significant contributions to Vietnam's development, including the establishment of administrative systems, public works, and educational reforms. Emperor Minh Mang was also a great patron of art, and he commissioned several magnificent structures during his reign, including the Mausoleum that bears his name.
The Mausoleum of Emperor Minh Mang is a masterpiece of traditional Vietnamese architecture, designed to reflect the Nguyen Dynasty's philosophy and aesthetics. The Mausoleum covers an area of over 18 hectares, surrounded by lush green forests and hills. It is composed of three main areas: the Honour Courtyard, the Stele House, and the Tomb Area.
The Honour Courtyard is the first area
that visitors see when they enter the Mausoleum. It is a vast open space lined
with 20 huge stone statues of mandarins, elephants, horses, and soldiers. These
statues represent the retinues of Emperor Minh Mang and symbolize his power and
authority.
The Stele House is the second area,
located at the end of the Honour Courtyard. It is a small building that houses
the stele, a stone tablet inscribed with the biography and achievements of
Emperor Minh Mang. The stele is an important cultural artifact that provides
valuable insights into the history and culture of Vietnam during the Nguyen
Dynasty.
The Tomb Area is the third and most important area of the Mausoleum....The tomb of Emperor Minh Mang is situated in the center of the complex, on a raised platform. It is a large stone structure with a sloping roof, decorated with intricate carvings and paintings. The tomb is surrounded by a beautiful lake, and is connected to the Honour Courtyard and the Stele House by a series of elaborate gates, pavilions, and bridges.
Before heading to the last tomb on our itinerary, that of the Emperor Tu Duc, we bought bottles of cold water from this smiling lady dressed in a sparkly mesh top Khai Dinh would have likely approved.
The Tu Duc Tomb was built between 1864 and 1867 by the emperor before his death, and he frequently visited its park-like setting during his lifetime. This aerial photo shows the composition of the complex.
The Vinpearl website provides some insight into the builder of the Tu Duc Tomb:
Tomb of Tu Duc reveals a lot about the emperor of the same name, a great intellectual and a romantic soul. During his time, the tomb served as his hideaway, where he poured his heart and soul into poetry and took a break from national affairs.
As the son of King Thieu Tri, Tu Duc
held the throne from 1847 to 1883. His reign, which spanned 35 years, marked
the end of Vietnamese independence as he could not withstand the continuous
attacks of French colonialists. Eventually, Tu Duc was forced to sign a
contract, in which he gave the French control over three Mekong Delta
provinces.
Under pressure, he also had to open
Hanoi, Hai Phong, and the Red River area to international trade. Although he
lost parts of the national territory, the Nguyen Dynasty’s fourth ruler was
still honored by Vietnamese people for his intellectual legacy, particularly
his poems.
Tu Duc Emperor was caught between the country's complex circumstances and his tragic private life when he was unable to have a descendant. Thus, to escape from his melancholy, he designed his own palatial retreat - 12 hectares of architectural work that took over six years to build.
I found Tu Duc's tomb a very serene setting, with its crescent-shaped lake and man-made islet,
its palace,
the temple on Luu Khiem Lake Tu Duc built to honor his mother, 
the Minh Khiem Theater, 
Whether the emperor’s body is truly here is unknown.
Legend has it that when the emperor passed away, his grieving crew actually
cruised down Luu Khiem Lake and laid him to rest in a secret spot.
After burying Tu Duc, all the servants were executed to protect his remains from grave robbers. And thus, the mystery of Tu Duc's final resting place went down with them.
Occupational hazard of a 19th century imperial servant.
Back in the car, Tommy took us to the Thien Mu Pagoda, situated along the banks of the Perfume River.
The pagoda is situated at the head of a series of gardens,
the first of which is entered through a stone gate guarded by this fierce fellow.
Hoping we had not exhausted Tommy's patience, we asked him to stop at an ancient house our homestay host recommended we see. The An Hien Garden House is featured on the Silk Path website, which has a good description of its chain of ownership and cultural significance.
After passing through an ancient stone gate, you enter the garden with its large pool framed by two rows of apricot trees. 
The wood house is richly detailed and furnished, with ceiling beams and suites of furniture inlaid in mother of pearl and rooms decorated with precious porcelains.
Tommy dropped us off at our homestay and after a quick lunch, I returned alone to the Imperial Citadel, not having got my fill the day before. I spent some time in the gardens, partitioned by plastered stone walls with painted gates like this one.
I happened upon this group of women musicians performing on the steps of an arcade.
Outside the gift shop, a woman who had been making incense sticks was on break. I asked if I could take her photo, and she gladly started up her machine for me. When I'd gotten the photo, I joked that she could go back on break now, and she laughed.
To cap off a wonderful--and very full--day, we found yet another cool rooftop cocktail bar. Hue seems to be full of them.
FEBRUARY 25
At 13:47, we caught the train to Phong Nha - Ke Bang. The adventure continues.
Keep it real!
Marilyn
Love all your photos and the details. Glad I'm not a 19th century Imperial servant. hjr
ReplyDeleteNice bar and beautiful architecture all around
ReplyDelete