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FELLINIESQUE


The adjective "Felliniesque" is "synonymous with any kind of extravagant, fanciful, even baroque image in the cinema and in art in general.
Bondanella, The Films of Federico Fellini

We’ve just come back from a three-day holiday in Le Marche, a rugged, mountainous province on the Adriatic Coast of Italy.  The reason for the trip was a 60th birthday party for a good friend from the UK.  It was a non-stop party for 14 that had Felliniesque moments—more on that in a sec.  We flew into Bologna and then headed to an agriturismo called La Tavola Marche, tucked into the Apennines near the small town of Piobbico.  While this is not meant to be an advertisement, I have to say that La Tavola Marche is an exceptionally beautiful venue hosted by an American couple who couldn’t be friendlier and who offer cooking lessons in their 500-year-old stone farmhouse.  Plus they have six I'm-going-to-roll-over-on-my-back-now-so-you-can-scratch-my-tummy cats.  I'm always a little skeptical of cooking schools, but all of the seasoned cooks in our group said they came away with either a new technique or a nuanced understanding of an ingredient, or both.  
From the Website
Here is the link to the agriturismo:  https://www.latavolamarche.com/  And here are a few photos of the rolling, pastoral landscape that envelopes it.  


As part of the celebrations, our birthday friends organized a cruise on the Adriatic that departed from Fano, a lovely beach town, where we had gelato at The Green Bar (below).  My choice was pistacchio gorgonzola, and it was to die for.  (Thank you, D!)
Our day trip culminated in a soirée at La Tavola Marche featuring a brass band from the adjacent town of Apecchio.   
The band is a fifth generation affair that started in 1920.  They are rehearsed but not polished, rustic but not unsophisticated, and nothing but extremely enthusiastic.  Here’s a taste of what they sound like:   




I don’t know about you, but the klezmer-y wailing of the clarinets and the circus marching fanfare of the brass took me back to a Nino Rota soundtrack straight out of a Fellini movie.  And that’s how things got Felliniesque.
8 1/2
As so often happens in real life, there were a lot of unexpected coincidences, starting with 1920, the date the band from Apecchio came into being.  Fellini was also born in 1920, in Rimini, a seaside resort on the Adriatic, not unlike and not far from Fano, the town from which we set sail (motored, actually).  Fellini went to boarding school in Fano.  According to one of his biographers:

He grew up in a middle class family, attending school run by a group of nuns.  He later attended a Catholic boarding school in a nearby town, Fano, where, in a childhood escapade, he ran away to join a traveling circus for a day, a brief evasion into the world of imagination.  At school, Fellini showed a special talent for drawing and art history and spent summer vacations in his family’s country house where he regularly watched passing gypsy caravans journeying on their way to other regions.

I Vitelloni
 Seaside towns, nuns, traveling circuses, and gypsies.  Sounds like a scene out of I Vitelloni (1953), La Strada (1954), Notti di Cabiria (1956), or Giulietta degli Spiriti (1964).  
I Notti di Cabiria
Yet Fellini contended that his films were not autobiographical, but rather inventions.  As quoted in Wiki:

It is not memory that dominates my films. To say that my films are autobiographical is an overly facile liquidation, a hasty classification. It seems to me that I have invented almost everything:  childhood, character, nostalgia, dreams, memories, for the pleasure of being able to recount them.
 
There was another Fellini coincidence--The Law.  To please his parents, Fellini enrolled in law school in 1939 at the University of Rome.  According to a biographer, "there is no record of his ever having attended a class."  Quickly finding that law offered no place for his active imagination, he dropped out and turned to drawing satirical caricatures, cartoon strips like the one above, and writing radio plays for a station in Rome.  The radio gig allowed him to avoid the draft and to meet his future wife, Giulietta Masina, who was the voice of one of his radio play characters.  I can sympathize with Fellini’s lack of enthusiasm for the legal profession.  In the summer of 1995, languid in the law, I binge watched 22 of his films screened at a two-week Fellini festival at The Castro in San Francisco.  The films typically began at 7:00 pm, which meant I had to duck out of my law job in the East Bay “a little early” to hustle over to San Francisco in time for the screening.  The choice between watching Fellini’s imagination at play and my lack of imagination at work wasn’t a close call.   
Cassanova
Then there is the Bologna and Planes Reference.  Fellini was a bit dodgy about all things draft during the Mussolini days.  After holding a series of jobs that deferred his inscription, he conclusively avoided serving thanks to an Allied bombing raid over Bologna that destroyed all of his medical records.  Creative destruction!
Giulietta degli Spiriti
Fellini and Masina married shortly thereafter and then events took a tragic turn.  Masina got pregnant within a few months but fell down the stairs and suffered a miscarriage.  She gave birth to a son, Pierfederico, in 1945, but he died of encephalitis at the age of one month.  These tragedies had a profound effect on Fellini’s personal life and his work.  
La Strada
 Which takes us to shrinks, LSD, and virtual reality.  Again from Wiki:

During the last three weeks of shooting La Strada in 1954, Fellini experienced the first signs of severe clinical depression.  Aided by his wife, he undertook a brief period of therapy with Freudian psychoanalyst Emilio Servadio.  Increasingly attracted to parapsychology, Fellini met the Turin magician Gustavo Rol in 1963.  Rol, a former banker, introduced him to the world of Spiritism and séances.  In 1964, Fellini took LSD under the supervision of his psychoanalyst.  For years reserved about what actually occurred that Sunday afternoon, he admitted in 1992 that,

“Objects and their functions no longer had any significance. All I perceived was perception itself, the hell of forms and figures devoid of human emotion and detached from the reality of my unreal environment. I was an instrument in a virtual world that constantly renewed its own meaningless image in a living world that was itself perceived outside of nature. And since the appearance of things was no longer definitive but limitless, this paradisaical awareness freed me from the reality external to myself. The fire and the rose, as it were, became one.”
Amarcord
“The fire and the rose, as it were, became one.” Pretty heady stuff!  But what better metaphor to illustrate Fellini's conceit that his films are poetry rather than prose, circular rather than linear?  He first outlined this view in a 1965 interview in The New Yorker

I am trying to free my work from certain constrictions – a story with a beginning, a development, an ending. It should be more like a poem with meter and cadence.

Commenting in Tutto Fellini, the book produced by Cinecitta’ International on the occasion of Fellini’s death in 1993, and which I bought at The Castro Fellini film festival, Oliver Stone called the director’s films “open-ended, mysterious, ambiguous, a puzzle.Poetic, he might have added.  Stone continues:

Fellini deconstructed reality.  The concept of impressionism, a subjective camera, was a silent movie technique we lost track of in narrative talking films and which Fellini rediscovered.  With Fellini sound is never an issue.  What is important is not so much what people say as the sumptuousness, the elegance of his films.  He creates a child’s world, a clown’s world where we are all vulnerable, we are all children and everyone’s a bit of a clown…His films took away the stodginess of modern life, enhancing it with beauty, with a glow.

Much like the Felliniesque birthday party for 14 in Le Marche:  extravagant, fanciful, even baroque.  Where, to paraphrase Stone, knowing the choice between laughter and tears, we chose laughter and put a frame around comedy and joy.  No doubt Fellini would have applauded our choice and Nino Rota would have accompanied our revels with one of his unmistakable tunes. 


Thanks, Steve, for the videos!

Keep it real!
Marilyn 

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