Skip to main content

SEE NAPLES AND DIE



We’ve never actually been in Naples.  We’ve been to the port of Naples many times to get the boat to Palermo, and once to Salina in the Aeolians, but we’ve never been in the city center.  So we don’t know Naples at all.  However, from what we’ve seen from portside, the venerable city, once the throne of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, is crumbling in pastel like so many stale macarons.   
Naples sits under the gimlet eye of Vesuvius, tempting fate and preferring a sudden igneous death to a slow ignominious decay.  At least, that’s my fantasy of Naples and its Neapolitans.
The Sun Sets on Vesuvius.
But let’s allow the once-grand city in decline to speak for herself.  
Crumbling Customs House
Where Admiral Nelson once sailed off to defeat Napoleon, today the Port of Naples' business centers on tourist and cargo traffic to Sicily, Sardinia, Tunisia, Morocco, Spain, and France.  
Cargo Bound for Sicily
We travel from Berlin to Sicily by car, so we can take our cats.  They're seasoned travelers, having made this crossing many times.  We always try to get a room with a view (despite the dirty, salty window), so the cats can amuse themselves watching the crew ready the boat for embarkation.

Calyx Surveys the Crew
Tea Settles In
China Observes


As soon as everybody gets stowed and comfy, we head to the bar to get stewed and comfy.  They make a helluva Negroni!
Helluva Negroni!       


The bar TV is always on and is either tuned to the news or to some crazy game show, like this one.  The host has been around for as long as we’ve been coming to Italy, so 20 years.  Maybe this dude is channeling Admiral Nelson?
Weird Italian Nobilta'
When we docked in Palermo the next morning, we headed to the bar for a cappucino.  The news was on and featured Matteo Salvini vowing never to allow another migrant boat to land on Italian shores. 

Matteo Salvini
But Salvini doesn’t have a clue how to stop the northward migration of Africans escaping climate change and seeking a better future.  He might as well just give it up, stick his head in a purple octopus, and live the adventure!


 

Keep it real!
Marilyn

Comments

  1. The one good thing about taking the ferry to Palermo is you can have an excellent pizza Napoletana for dinner .

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Si'! C'e`in buon rapporto fra qualita' e prezzo anche.

      Delete
  2. Thanks for the Naples interlude.
    We spent a morning in Naples years ago hanging around the train station waiting to catch the "Rapido" to Brindisi. "Rapido", it turns out, must be named ironically, because it stopped at almost every station along the way. This (plus an unscheduled stop in the middle of nowhere to put out a fire somewhere on the train) caused us to miss our ferry to Greece and gave us an extra day in Brindisi.
    But I do remember feeling a subtle thrill being so close to Mt Vesuvius. There had been some recent earth tremors (terremoti).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I would love to see Etna exploding some day--from a safe distance, of course. It does spout off frequently, but we've never managed to be in the right place at the right time. An extra day in Brindisi--is that a plus or a minus?

      Delete
  3. Looks like a great way to get to Sicily!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY BREAK GLASS

A vocal critic of Benito Mussolini, Antonio Gramsci, Italian philosopher and politician,  was imprisoned for his political views in 1926; he remained in prison until shortly before his death in 1937.   From his cell, he wrote the  Prison Letters in which he famously said, “I’m a pessimist because of intelligence, but an optimist because of will."   In this time of upheaval, when the post-World War II world order is dying, a new world order is being born, and monsters roam the earth, it is from Gramsci's dual perspective that I write this post.    I will be brief. Th e window to oppose America’ s headlong rush into authoritarianism at home and neo-imperialism abroad by congressional or judicial means has closed.   Law firms, universities, businesses, the press, media, foundations, and individuals alike who have been deemed "insufficiently aligned" with the Administration's agenda, have been intimidated into submission by frivolous lawsuits, expe...

A MONTH IN JAPAN – TOKYO, NOVEMBER 5 - 6, 2025

November 5, 2025 – Shibuya, Daikanyama, and Shinjuku The Lonely Planet Pocket Guide to Tokyo  "Walk Shibuya" describes Shibuya. Thanks to its iconic intersection, Shibuya serves as a kind of visual shorthand for Tokyo in the global imagination.   The thrumming crowds, glowing lights and giant video screens that you associate with the city?   They’re all here – and turned up to the max.   Shibuya is a center for youth culture, and particularly fashion, music and nightlife; it’s among the best places in the city for clubbing [Me:  "Oh, to be 20 again!"], live music and shopping….To the west are the hip residential enclaves of Daikanyama and Naka-Meguro; these neighborhoods …can give you an alternative image of life in the capital – one that’s low-rise and low-key (but still very Tokyo).    Shibuya Station We took the Chiyoda Line from Nezu Station a few blocks from our apartment, transferred to the Hamzomon Line at Otemachi Station, and got off at ...

“I COULDN’T CARE LESS”

Two days after the assassination of Charlie Kirk, President Trump made a previously-scheduled appearance on Fox & Friends, where he announced the arrest of the gunman, which arrest he said had occurred just moments before.   As reported by ABC News , “ Trump was asked [by co-host Ainsley Earhardt] about the presence of radical individuals on both sides of the aisle and how it can be fixed to bring the country together. ”   You can watch the Fox & Friends clip here:   https://www.foxnews.com/video/6379207542112 . Here is a transcript of the exchange between Ms. Earhardt and the President: “Because we have radicals on the right as well. We have radicals on the left. People have gotten [sic] are watching all of these videos and cheering. Some people are cheering that Charlie was, was killed. How do we fix this country? How do we come back together?" co-host Ainsley Earhardt asked the president. "I'll tell you something that's going to get me in trouble, but...