A C. T U. A L. L Y

After three days of rain and cool temperatures (warmer in Berlin and in Castiglion Fiorentino than in Palermo, but no climate change—just ask Joe Manchin!), we took advantage of the sun and the cloudless blue sky and drove north to the rugged coast.   The destination:   Sferracavallo (above), about 12 km from the city center of Palermo.   The entertainment:   first, lunch at da Emanuele , an unpretentious seafood restaurant on the water, and then a postprandial walk through the Riserva Capo Gallo , a nature reserve and biodiversity habitat. We’ve eaten at da Emanuele many times and it did not disappoint yesterday.   As so often is the case in Italy, next to us was a table of six men who had come together on a Wednesday at lunchtime to share some pasta, conversation, and laughter. The view out over the crystalline water is always a marvel. We ordered an antipasto al mare —baby octopus, calamari, mussels, carrots and celery in a light vinaigrette, plus a split...

It’s April in Tuscany and the flora is waking up, shaking off its winter sleep, rolling out its green carpet, and hanging its leafy drapes.   We’ve had quite a lot of rain since we arrived on the cusp of Spring on April 10 th (see photo above--the "before the rain.")  The streams are now loudly rushing, the fields are resplendently verdant, buds are daily swelling, fruit trees are fragrantly flowering, and I've planted pink and fuchsia geraniums in those planters (see photo below--the "after the rain.")  Mother Nature!!   She always shows up---even if we look the other way. Last Saturday I took a walk from our Borgo Valuberti down to Borgo Fiume, another small settlement of stone houses on a hill overlooking the Nestore, the river that gives our valley its name.   iPhone in hand, jaw dropped, eyes popped, and heart filled, I took these photos.   This is the old lilac bush at the edge of our field. This is our small orchard.     Our gard...