MARCH 10: It took what seemed like forever to get to Koh Chang, a gorgeous island off the southeast coast of Thailand: first, a 10:55 morning flight from Phnom Penh to Bangkok, where we picked up a connecting flight at 16:15 to Trat on the mainland, and from Trat by van to the ferry landing and then on to Koh Chang, where we were met by yet another van that brought us directly to Sylvan , our hotel. It was a long day, but the journey was soon eclipsed by the beauty of our luxurious surroundings. We had booked a pool villa at the suggestion of our Berlin neighbors, who had spent almost a week at Sylvan. It was without a doubt the nicest accommodation of our trip. The ultra-modern pool villa had a deck up a few stairs from the ground level, with an expansive view of the ocean. From the ground level, we descended a stair down one floor to the entry, and alongside the stair ran a water feature that continued right into and through th...