After three days of rain and cool temperatures (warmer in Berlin and in Castiglion Fiorentino than in Palermo, but no climate change—just ask Joe Manchin!), we took advantage of the sun and the cloudless blue sky and drove north to the rugged coast. The destination: Sferracavallo (above), about 12 km from the city center of Palermo. The entertainment: first, lunch at da Emanuele , an unpretentious seafood restaurant on the water, and then a postprandial walk through the Riserva Capo Gallo , a nature reserve and biodiversity habitat. We’ve eaten at da Emanuele many times and it did not disappoint yesterday. As so often is the case in Italy, next to us was a table of six men who had come together on a Wednesday at lunchtime to share some pasta, conversation, and laughter. The view out over the crystalline water is always a marvel. We ordered an antipasto al mare —baby octopus, calamari, mussels, carrots and celery in a light vinaigrette, plus a split...